Eternal Kashgar

Breathtaking scenery at the 5,100-meter-high China-Pakistan border on the Pamir Plateau. Photos by Zhang Zixuan / China Daily

Clockwise from above: During preparations for a Uygur wedding, the bride lies down on the carpet so that makeup can be applied on her face. The Tomb of Fragrant Imperial Concubine, built in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). A baker makes the Uygur-style crusty nang. Many people in Kashgar still live a traditional life in Tower Houses.

A landmark for Silk Road merchants and modern filmmakers, this bustling city entrances visitors with glimpses into many cultures. Zhang Zixuan reports from Kashgar, Xinjiang Uygur autonomous region.

In ancient times, Kashgar was a crossroads for traders and a gathering place for tribal peoples across the region. Known by the Chinese as Shule in those days, the modern name for this city of about 350,000 is Kashi.

The 2007 film The Kite Runner was filmed here, and the city today reflects all the cultural flavor of the many ethnic groups who live in Xinjiang Uygur autonomous region. In this relaxed western frontier, no one seems to be in a hurry.

Up on a 40-meter high and 800-meter long cliff at the northeastern end of Kashgar old town, the Tower Houses - randomly shaped Uygur homes that gradually expanded over the years - stand proudly alongside the new city areas.

Along the street, a goat stands up and leans against a tree to reach the leaves. Not far away, vehicles stop to let a flock of sheep pass.

Local residents favor motorcycles to get around. Wives sit cross-legged on the backseat behind their husbands. When tourist buses pass by, the women wave and give a big smile.

At any age, Uygur women care about their appearance. Their turbans are matched beautifully with dresses and shoes. For religious reasons, Uygur women seldom show their legs, but with the help of flesh-colored tights, they can wear a wide array of colorful clothing.

Uygur people are not camera shy, especially the women and children. They change poses when they notice they are the objects of focus. Some of them even ask to examine the pictures to make sure the camera has captured their most attractive moments.

At a local family, we ran into preparations for a Uygur wedding. All shoes are left at the entrance in front of the house, which is fully covered by carpeting.

Children and female relatives are crammed into the house, helping with the preparation or just simply playing. Upstairs the bride lies down on the floor to make it easier for the makeup artist who deftly applies makeup to her face. In a few hours, the bridegroom will arrive and pick her up.

Outside, a five-member folk music group has already started performing. Uygur men can no longer sit tight - they get up to dance. Women inside the house are also attracted by the lively sounds and they come out to join the dancing.

They pose with arms and fling back their shoulders. They form a circle, dancing first in one direction and then the other. They also invite new arrivals to join in, turning the yard into a dance floor.

We bid farewell to the hospitable family when they were about to serve Xinjiang-style rice, made with a variety of grains and cooked with mutton, chicken or vegetable.

What lies ahead is the Karakul Lake, about 191 km from Kashgar city. Our car glided through the Gobi Desert, past snow-capped mountains. Small cottages that occasionally appear along the road are completely built from white stone.

Situated 3,600 meters above the sea level, the Karakul Lake is said to be the dressing mirror of the nearby mountains.

The gleaming snow and marshmallow clouds set off the extraordinary blue plateau lake, adding a mysterious and poetic element to the scene.

It only costs 20 yuan (about $3.25) to ride a horse or a camel. The herders guide the animals to the most beautiful spots at the lakeside, giving their customers great photo opportunities in the natural wonderland.

The herders also sell boiling milk tea, which warms up the visitors who must often brace against the heavy wind in the high altitude here.

Our mountain adventure did not stop here. After a short break at the central area of Tashi Kuergan Tajik autonomous county, our car continued on to the 5,100-meter high China-Pakistan border upon the Pamir Plateau.

The snow mountains got closer and eventually we found ourselves on top of one - the one with the boundary marker that says "China" on one side and "Pakistan" on the other.

The scene is thrilling, but the wind is also extreme. The rare air makes me short of breath and any fast movement is followed by panting.

But the Chinese and Pakistani frontier guards have obviously gotten used to this. They welcome every photo request from visitors, who relieve the boredom for the soldiers who live in this mettle-testing environment.

After coming back from the Pamir Plateau that night, we celebrated our survival of a huge challenge, although a few of us were still suffering from altitude sickness.

We were visiting a Tajik family and sat cross-legged in a circle on the heated brick bed, surrounded by overlapping plates of food.

Hospitable Tajik friends danced and sang with instruments while we tucked into the delicious meal like wolves. Their warm reception drove off the chill of the snow mountain.

Our journey kept bringing surprises. In Zepu county in the central Kashgar region, dates are as big as eggs; and there are 147 centenarians, the oldest among them was 111 years old.

The last eye-opener came when we got back to Kashgar city a day before our trip ended. It was a Friday, and we shopped at the local bazaar until it suddenly closed around 2 pm. People gradually filled the Aitiga Mosque. Others - including shoppers at the bazaar - crowded on the road and knelt down to praying facing the direction of Mecca.

For one moment, the whole city was rapt in holy silence.

Contact the writer at zhangzixuan@chinadaily.com.cn.

(China Daily 11/15/2012 page19)