Taste Flight

Imagine an eight-course meal served with wine and champagne while winging along at 35,000 feet above the ground. It sounds like what the rich and powerful do - but it is now an experience available to others as airlines continue to look for a niche that will set them apart.

Meals accompanied by fine tableware and served course-by-course instead of in a single package are meant to remind passengers of an exclusive restaurant, says Douglas A. Bressler, director of food service operations, Continental Airlines Asia-Pacific.

Competition in the airline industry, from routes to ticket prices, from in-flight facilities to on-board services, is now so intense that carriers are trying various approaches to entice travelers.

Food services have become a crucial arena in the battle.

In Continental Airlines' "BusinessFirst-class" - a term the airline uses - menus aboard the world's fifth-largest carrier include main courses of grilled New York-cut sirloin steak, French seafood bouillabaisse soup, chicken with black bean sauce and bowls of noodles.

"You can choose a steak rare, medium or well-done. It's really fresh and the flavors just jump out," says Bressler, a catering veteran with over 20 years of experience.

He says he is also proud of the wines, usually nine on each flight, offered to Continental's Business First-class travelers. A wine aficionado, he travels around Europe during his vacations to find suitable appellations. A team of wine connoisseurs then assists Continental's beverage committee on their selection.

Asian airlines may be even more aware of the importance of passengers' palates to ticket sales.

Korean Air serves stirred buckwheat noodles and fresh organic vegetables. Whole wheat bread as well as home-styled congee and rice are also available. The carrier's slogan is simple and healthy food.

On Cathay Pacific's Singapore to Hong Kong commute, travelers can enjoy the famous A Yi Restaurant brand of abalone or taste pencai - a traditional dish for southern China festivals, made from seafood, meatballs, fried tofu and vegetables and served in a wooden tub.

In addition to gourmet meals, on-board performances by chefs have also been introduced.

Several times a year, one of the master chefs from Continental's "congress of chefs", which designs the airline's BusinessFirst-class menus, will don his hat and starched white jacket for a hands-on, in-flight demonstration. The on-board chef visits with passengers to get comments and suggestions, and also provides service tips to flight attendants.

"In-flight interaction between our chefs and crewmembers enhances chefs' understanding of the challenges an airline faces in creating and presenting restaurant-quality food at 35,000 feet," says Walter B. Dias, vice-president of sales and marketing at Continental.

Under pressure from rising oil costs and competition in ticket prices, the cost of an airline meal is naturally part of the many considerations by airlines.

Insiders say the general cost of an airline meal is between 30 yuan and 50 yuan for economy class, while for business or first class, the prices are diverse due to varying sets of menus on different carriers.

China's airlines carried 138 million passengers last year, with the airlines' expenditures on meals at least 5.52 billion yuan.

Airline caterers agree that passengers in Asia, including China, have refined tastes and expect more from the food than many travelers in the West.

"In the United States and Europe, passengers are quite happy as long as they have food," says Bressler.

Asian people are much more aware of what they eat, with a stronger food culture and the expectation that eating is part of their flying experience, says Fritz Gross, regional culinary manager for airline caterer LSG Sky Chefs based in Hong Kong.

Traditional air carriers are feeling the competition from economy airlines, whose ticket prices are low in part because meals and drinks carry an extra charge. Continental is now the only carrier in the US offering in-flight food services included in the ticket price.

Houston-based Continental is currently operating daily non-stop flights between Beijing and New York.

Last month, Continental applied for the first non-stop service linking Shanghai and New York, according to HC Kwok, the airline's chief representative and country director China.

If the route is approved, passengers on Continental's New York to Shanghai flights might have chance to taste traditional Shanghai snacks, such as shengjianbao (fried stuffed buns) and yangchunmian (spring noodles).

(China Daily 08/20/2007 page6)