With many of the World Cup matches in North America playing out amid the wee hours in China, Qingdao's late-night beer houses and seafood stalls are filled with soccer fans.
Across the coastal city in Shandong province, supporters gather around television screens with freshly poured beer and plates of seafood. Cheers erupt with every goal, while the aromas of malt, grilled skewers and sea breeze fill the night air.
The tournament has added new energy to Qingdao's summer nightlife, where soccer, beer and seafood have long gone hand in hand. For many residents and visitors, watching matches has become another way to experience the city's distinctive beer culture.
At a bar in downtown Qingdao, German expatriate Lucas Schmidt watched the opening matches alongside friends from several countries.
"People from different countries shared the same emotions," said Schmidt, a 32-year-old mechanical equipment specialist who has lived in Qingdao for three years. "Everyone celebrated together. That's what makes watching football here so special."
Originally from Munich, Schmidt first encountered Tsingtao beer in Asian supermarkets and Chinese restaurants in Germany.
"It was one of the first Chinese beers I knew," he said. "The taste was refreshing, easy to drink and had a pleasant malt character."
After moving to Qingdao, Schmidt discovered another side of the city's beer culture through freshly brewed draft beer and raw ale — typically unfiltered and unpasteurized draft beer that is served fresh.
Schmidt said that the latter's slightly cloudy appearance and richer yeast aromas were unlike most beers he drank in Germany.
During soccer matches, he often orders a classic lager.
"It works very well with grilled food and seafood," he said.
Beer enthusiasts in the city often describe the classic lager as balanced and easy to drink. Raw beer, meanwhile, offers a more robust maltiness, fuller aromas, a velvety mouthfeel and a shorter shelf life, and should be consumed fresh.
Wang Gen, who has run a bar in Qingdao for three years, said that customer numbers typically rise by around 30 percent during major soccer tournaments.
According to Wang, local consumers have become increasingly interested in freshness, flavor and drinking experiences. "People no longer focus only on price," he said. "They care more about quality, freshness and atmosphere."
Younger consumers, he said, are also seeking social experiences rather than simply drinking alcohol. "They enjoy gathering together to watch matches and celebrate," Wang said. "Beer has become a way to relax and enjoy life."
For longtime residents, however, beer remains deeply connected to everyday routines.
Zhang Kai, a 42-year-old native of Qingdao, said that one of the city's most recognizable traditions is buying fresh "bag beer" on the way home.
"Many people stop at neighborhood beer shops after work and take home a bag of fresh beer," he said.
The practice is a familiar sight in summer: Transparent plastic bags filled with freshly poured beer can be seen hanging from bicycle handlebars or carried by residents walking home for dinner.
"It's simply part of daily life," Zhang said. "Beer is both a drink and a way of bringing people together."
Beer in Qingdao is closely associated with food. Stir-fried clams, known locally as gala, are one of the city's most popular beer accompaniments. "The freshness of seafood and the clean taste of the beer complement each other," Zhang said.
A crisp lager helps balance the sweetness of shellfish, while fuller-bodied wheat beers and raw beers pair well with grilled meat and richer dishes.
Beer is an intrinsic part of the city's identity. Annual beer festivals, museums and brewery districts have helped make Qingdao one of China's best-known culinary destinations. However, residents say that the essence of the city's beer culture lies in ordinary summer evenings rather than large events.
Along neighborhood streets, small beer shops continue to serve fresh draft beer. Families gather around outdoor tables, office workers stop by for a drink after work, and soccer fans stay up late to watch matches together.
For Schmidt, it is this atmosphere that distinguishes Qingdao from the beer culture he knew in Germany.
"German beer halls are often more traditional and orderly," he said. "Qingdao feels more relaxed and spontaneous."
As the final whistle blows in the early morning hours, outside neighborhood beer houses, glasses are raised, seafood plates are emptied and fans linger to discuss the results. In this city built on beer, the World Cup has seamlessly blended into a wider summer ritual of food, beer and friendship.
