Standing out from the fashion tribe

A Chinese designer learned about style in Milan but draws his greatest inspiration from Miao ethnic group

Chinese fashion designer Yang Jie is well known for his work, such as his design for the torch bearers' clothes for the Olympic Games relay in Beijing in 2008 and the uniforms for the pilots of the Chinese Air Force's August 1st air demonstration team in 2009.

As the founder of two fashion brands, Yang Jie Design and Xi Xiu for menswear, Yang, who has taught at the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology for more than 10 years, says he has drawn his inspiration largely from the embroidery skills of the Miao, one of the oldest Chinese ethnic groups.

During a recent fashion show at Prince Gong's Mansion (Gong Wang Fu) in Beijing, the former residence of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) prince, Yang displayed more than 40 works he has designed since 2013, featuring Miao embroidery.

"Some internationally celebrated fashion designers have looked back to their own traditions to get inspiration," Yang says. "For example, in the designs of the Italian-born Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, Dolce&Gabbana, homage is paid to Sicilian tradition. As a Chinese designer I want to celebrate the heritage from my hometown through my works."

Yang, 37, grew up in the mountainous landscape of Huaihua, a city in the southwest of Hunan province, which is home to many ethnic groups. Yang, a member of the Miao ethnic group, used to spend his holidays in the village where his grandparents lived.

"My grandmother used to wear traditional Miao ethnic clothes and silver accessories that she made herself," Yang says. "Like many women in her village, she did needlework several hours a day."

The tradition of making silver accessories and embroidery is deeply rooted in Miao ethnic culture, he says.

Traditional Miao embroidery designs use deep and bright colors to portray flowers, animals, natural scenery and the daily lives of Miao people.

"The designs for Miao ethnic embroidery, usually made by women, signify good luck and express wishes," Yang says.

"The women doing embroidery are called xiuniang, and they choose the colors and patterns based on their mood at that particular moment. For example, when the xiuniang uses pink standing out among other darker colors, she is wishing for a baby girl for the family."

Yang vividly recalls that when his youngest aunt got married, his grandmother wore 10 kilograms of silver on her head and shoulders to the wedding. The bride also wore a heavy and elaborate silver headdress and traditional Miao ethnic dress.

"When I studied in school, in the city of Huaihua, my classmates all wore clothes such as T-shirts and pants. But when I returned to the village, people were wearing traditional Miao ethnic clothes and accessories. I was very impressed and interested in the sharp contrast. My identity as a Miao ethnic gtoup member set me apart from when I was born and I am very proud of it."

After graduating from the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology in 2004 he furthered his study in Milan, where he obtained his master's degree from the Institute of European Design with a full scholarship in 2006.

In Italy he discovered a whole new use for the embroidery of the Miao ethnic group. While studying modern design he used elements from Miao embroidery to do his homework and to pass tests, standing out among his Western classmates.

Appreciation for the beauty of traditional Miao crafts from his teachers and classmates motivated Yang to do further research and explore reviving the rich cultural traditions of the Miao.

One of the most important design ideas he learned was wearability, he says. Usually Miao people work on farms all day and they wear comfortable and wearable clothes.

"Fashion design should serve the people and bring joy to their lives. It's not for luxury. The wonderful techniques of the Miao ethnic people, such as weaving, embroidery and hand-dyeing textiles, have survived for thousands of years. I am not only simply preserving those crafts but also bringing them to the modern world."

Apart from launching fashion shows in big cities, such as Beijing and Milan, Yang also takes his works back to the Miao tribes. In 2013 he unveiled about 50 works in Fenghuang, an ancient town in Hunan province. Yang, who has two children, says he is delighted that his 7-year-old daughter is interested in Miao embroidery and loves to wear traditional Miao ethnic clothes.

To keep himself inspired, Yang often travels back to his hometown and visits Miao tribes across the country, in places such as Guizhou and Yunnan provinces. Around the mountains and valleys there are Miao villages, each surrounded by terraced fields.

"It is the colorful nature we live in that enables Miao people to have our unique aesthetics," Yang says.