"No chicken, no feast." The saying still holds true in Guangdong province, where poultry remains a fixture on family tables and banquet menus, while some local specialties are finding new fans beyond the dining table.
At LN Dongfang Hotel in Guangzhou, the provincial capital, Shishi chicken has been prepared for 65 years. From Fengkai county in western Guangdong, Xinghua chickens are shipped across China, with their eggs also sought by pastry chefs.
Yet as the way that chicken is produced, served and consumed changes, one standard remains: The chicken itself should taste like chicken.
"That is the highest praise Guangzhou diners can give," said Lu Jianrong, executive chef at Yanlegong, a restaurant at the hotel.
The aim is chicken that is tender yet firm, with a fresh, savory flavor that is not masked by seasoning, Lu said.
This emphasis on natural flavor has shaped Guangdong's rich tradition of chicken dishes and local breeds.
One example is Shishi chicken, a traditional Guangzhou dish created in the early 20th century at Xinji, a Cantonese restaurant on what is now Beijing Road. It was named after the nearby Guangzhou Municipal Normal School, known as "Shishi".
For Lu, it starts with the bird itself. The restaurant uses chickens aged 160 to 180 days. "Only a chicken that has been raised for long enough can develop the right flavor," Lu said.
The key cooking method is slow-poaching rather than plain boiling.
The chicken is cooked in stock, kept at about 85 C, that is made with ingredients including ham, shrimp, dried scallops, squid, ginger and scallions. A technique known as "three lifts and three dips" helps to regulate the temperature and cook the chicken evenly.
"If the water is too hot, the skin can split and the meat can become tough; if it is too cool, the chicken may not cook properly," Lu said.
Knowing when it is done also takes experience. Chefs feel the leg joint to judge doneness, rather than relying solely on a timer.
"Machines can measure temperature, but every chicken is different in size and texture," Lu said. "The final judgment still requires a chef to make adjustments based on the individual bird."
Once cooked, the chicken is quickly cooled in chilled stock, then cut into pieces and finished with roasted peanut oil and a savory soy-based sauce.
"The sauce is there to enhance the chicken's flavor, not to cover it up," Lu said.
The same preference for freshness and natural flavor can be found in Guangdong's local breeds.
Xinghua chicken, from Fengkai county, is a national geographical indication product known for its small size, thin skin and tender meat. Locals describe it as having "glass-like skin and crisp, delicate bones".
Chen Yanying, who runs a restaurant specializing in dishes made with Xinghua chicken, said the restaurant works with local farms to maintain a steady supply.
The breed is also finding new uses beyond the dining table. Its eggs are being made into cakes, pastries and egg pancakes, while the restaurant's partner farms sell about 2 million birds a year, with the majority shipped beyond Guangdong.
Poached Xinghua chicken is among the most popular preparations. The chicken is repeatedly lifted from hot water, briefly cooled and returned to the pot. The method produces crisp skin and tender meat, with a gelatinous layer forming between the skin and flesh.
In Fengkai, it is commonly served with ginger-and-scallion soy sauce, while Guangzhou diners often pair it with minced ginger and peanut oil.
For visitors to Guangdong, especially those trying Cantonese cuisine for the first time, local chicken offers a straightforward introduction to the region's culinary philosophy — start with the ingredient and let the cooking reveal its natural qualities.
Though the preparations differ, the principle is the same: Seasoning should complement the ingredient rather than overwhelm it.
"Cantonese cuisine emphasizes freshness, lightness, crispness, tenderness and smoothness," Lu said. "With good ingredients, you don't need too many complicated seasonings. The key is to bring out their natural flavor."
Zheng Caixiong in Guangzhou contributed to this story.
