Phoenix claws or chicken feet

There are several litmus tests for the unwary foreigner eager to try local cuisine. The more obvious hurdles are stinky tofu and the notorious century eggs, both of which are definitely acquired tastes.

But the true test comes with the off-cuts or ordinary animals like pigs, cows ... and chickens.

The Chinese cook wastes nothing from beak or snout to tail and feet, and everything inside the animal as well.

Take the famous "phoenix claws", beloved in every province but especially in the south and southwest of China.

The humble barnyard chicken is elevated to legendary heights when it arrives on the banquet table, and blessed with the "phoenix" moniker.

Its feet, a treasured delicacy among gourmets, is thus branded phoenix claws.

To those who enjoy the collagen and tendons of the chicken feet, the name is more than justified, but I know plenty who are new to China who shrink away in disgust.

Why? Those of us who have had chickens scratching around in the back garden would understand. The chicken's feet are used to industriously claw through soil and manure to dig up bugs and worms and other tasty morsels in the bird's unceasing quest for food.

But the same people who think chicken feet too dirty to enjoy are also strangers to the Chinese kitchen.

Chicken feet are methodically cleansed and clipped before they are prepared, the hard outer skin is carefully stripped, leaving the tenderest layer. The outer nails also come off. And every claw is clipped before cooking.

As a result, the claw, almost fatless, is a tender package of skin and tendons, and a natural source of collagen.

As a southern Chinese, I grew up enjoying chicken feet with no baggage whatsoever. We had them braised in a rich soy sauce brew with aromatic dried shiitake mushrooms.

By the end of two hours of slow cooking, the mushrooms were soft and plump, the chicken feet were wonderfully tender and the sauce gummy with the gelatin that was being slowly released.

The chicken feet would almost fall apart when you pick them up, with the skin barely holding it all together. You hardly needed to chew, but just simply allow the whole thing to break up in your mouth. By then, even the bones could be chewed easily.

Another favorite was a soup. A huge pork bone was cracked in half and blanched. This formed the base of the stock. Then, chicken feet, lots of raw peanuts, a couple of Chinese red dates or jujubes were added.

The soup would be simmered until all the ingredients released their sweetness to form a savory bowl of pure heaven.

Imagine the flavor of pork accentuated by the fragrance of peanuts. The soup would be naturally thickened by the melting chicken feet, every mouthful sticky with collagen.

And best of all, these ingredients were all immensely affordable.

Yumcha restaurants serving dim sum are also fond of serving little saucers of steamed chicken feet seasoned in fermented black beans, chili and garlic. This is perennial best-seller and enjoyed by young and old, an appetizer full of umami.

People from Sichuan and Yunnan provinces almost challenge the Cantonese in their love for the "phoenix claws". In fact, the Sichuan people go one better. They do an excellent pickle with blanched chicken feet.

The blanched claws are dropped into the pickling jars that would have help Sichuan's famous pickles. After a week or so, the chicken feet would have soaked up the spicy, tart flavors and have become a favorite snack.

This is such a favorite food that it has become an entire industry and you can buy Sichuan pickled chicken feet at any convenience stores all over China.

And of course, with the spread of the Sichuan mala cuisine style, hot, spicy numbing chicken feet speckled with Sichuan peppercorns and chili flakes are now standard offerings in neighborhood restaurants. Chicken feet are nutritious, delicious and easily available. They deserve a closer look and at least a serious prejudiced attempt.

In these days of serious food wastage, don't you think a frugal chef who makes clever use of every part of the animal should be encouraged?

paulined@chinadaily.com.cn

(China Daily Global 06/05/2019 page15)