BRITISH DINERS REFINE APPETITES FOR CHINESE CUISINE

Dishes have long been available, but local tastes are evolving

William Poon opened his first Poon's Restaurant in 1973 in an 8-square-meter space in Lisle Street, Central London. It had been occupied by an electrical supplies shop and was only big enough to accommodate four tables.

But Poon's Cantonese food became so popular he opened six more restaurants. One he opened in 1976 was awarded a Michelin star in 1980 and named the best Chinese restaurant in London. He sold his business in 2003 and retired.