Hairy honeys

'Mitten crabs'and their succulent roe are one seasonal treat that should not be missed, writes Xu Junqian.

It's hairy crab season again, and time for Shanghai locals to revel in the juicy meat and treasured female roe of the gray-green crab that is characterized by its hairy mittens. There is a general consensus among Shanghai's chefs that the most flavorsome crabs come from Yangcheng Lake in neighboring Jiangsu province, but you don't need to board a train to feast on this local delicacy. Shanghai boasts numerous restaurants that import the crab and know how to cook it to perfection. Below are a few top picks.

1. Wang Bao He