Why we're out of fashion

Du Juan in a Dolce & Gabbana advertisement in New York.

She stopped in front of No. 31, took a deep breath and checked herself again with the mirror in her cosmetic case before stepping inside. It was the house of Chanel - one of the world's best-known fashion brands.

Du Juan, the slim Chinese girl, carrying her heavy photo album and high heels, came alone for her first interview, where she would start her journey to become an international supermodel.

Du started modeling by chance. A ballerina by training, her childhood dream was to be a world-class dancer and she had studied dance and traditional opera at the prestigious Shanghai Dance School since the age of 8. As she grew taller, she had to switch to modeling as a career.

"One year ago, she was just one of many models in China," says Angelica Cheung, editorial director of Vogue China in Shanghai. "Today, if she wants to take jobs in China, there would be loads of opportunities. But with limited time, she goes to Paris, New York and Milan, walking for the houses of Valentino, Givenchy, Jean Paul Gaultier and Anne Valerie Hash."

For international supermodels like Du, the average pay may range from $10,000 to $30,000 a day to appear in catalogs.

Before entering the international fashion arena early last year, Shanghai-born Du had already been one of top supermodels in the country. She was the champion of 2002 New Silk Road, which is the most popular model competition in China, and was awarded "Model of the Year" at the 2004 China Fashion Awards by the China Fashion Federation.

"Just gaining a domestic success doesn't mean there is a smooth way ahead to be an international supermodel," Du says.

She clearly remembers the first time when she went into the dressing room of a runway for Louis Vuitton in 2006, where she found she was the only Asian face among all 60 top models from Europe and the United States.

"At that time, language was a problem for me. But working with those professionals really made me confident," says Du, who is named by style.com as one of the top 10 models in the world in fall 2006.

Du's big break came in October 2005 when she appeared on the cover of French Vogue for a special issue on China. "Ms. Du is divine and very pretty. She is an ancient beauty," says Patrick Demarchelier, the fashion photographer who shot the Vogue cover.

Fashion designers always need to absorb new elements, and they can often obtain inspiration from new models, including those from different cultural backgrounds.

However, since most leading designers are from Europe and the United States, they mainly target Western markets. Asian faces, though bringing some diversity and freshness, don't have much space on the world's fashion stage.

"It's completely new ground for Europeans and Americans to feature a Chinese woman so prominently in fashion spreads and ads," says Pascal Dangin, who retouches photos for fashion photographers, and has worked on several of Du's ads and editorial shots.

So far, only a few Chinese models like Du Juan and Lu Yan have made it big in the exclusive fashion world.

Usually, the rise of a supermodel needs some key elements - capturing coveted spots in editorial and mass market - from the world's chicest runways to high-profile magazines, advertising campaigns and catalogs.

"To reach these goals, a model needs good teamwork: professional dressers, stylists, photographers, talent fashion designers and runway directors," says Li Xiaobai, director of New Silk Road model agency.

"Modeling agencies play an important role in our field," says Wang Bing, a senior modeling agent working in Shanghai International Management Group (IMG).

But Wang reveals that most agencies in China are operating unprofessionally. "A good agency should be able to discover models to meet with diverse needs of their clients, and introduce them to professional fashion workers. The relationship between models and agencies should be cooperative."

However, in the domestic market poor quality cosmetics are used in dressing room and payments are often delayed for several months. Many models who can't get opportunities have to work as freelancers at a lower price, says Wang, which actually leads to a price-slashing war among models.

In major fashion capitals, models attending interviews and castings are scheduled in sequence, so nobody has to waste time to wait. While in China, most models have to crowd into a hall and wait for hours, sometimes even a whole night, Du says.

"Everyone working in Western fashion industry is very professional," Du says. "The fashion houses don't need us to rehearse repeatedly before runways, since they trust the judgment of model agencies."

While gifted models are usually discovered by experienced agencies and fashion professionals in the West, Chinese candidates have to win a title in an influential model competition if they want to catch attention.

But some insiders say that some competitions have been controlled by certain agencies, which only aim at advertising their own models.

Wang points out that unless Chinese agencies develop professionally, nobody can predict when another Du Juan will make it to the international stage.

Like many talented models in China, Shan Jingya, a fresh graduate from Beijing Institute of Clothing Technology, dreams about international fame. She has been on the cover of Elle in Hong Kong and won the second runner-up and best shape award in the 5th China Professional Model Competition in 2005.

"I think my career in the domestic market has reached a peak, so I am planning to extend it internationally," Shan says. She has been practicing English for a year. "I am looking forward to signing to an excellent international agency, which is the key to success."

She believes that she will have more chances if China develops its own fashion brands and professional fashion workers.

"Only if we have our own top fashion brands, will there be more local supermodels shining on the world's T-stages," says Du, who is walking for 2007 Autumn and Winter Haute Couture in Paris.

(China Daily 08/09/2007 page18)