At LVMH's pavilion at the ninth China International Import Expo, young visitors are slowing their pace.
Instead of heading straight for bestselling handbags and fragrances, they linger at craftsmanship demonstrations, watch artisans weave gold threads by hand to create iconic pieces, or pause at raw material exhibits to trace how a native orchid from Yunnan province makes its way into a premium skincare line.
This subtle shift in visitor behavior points to a broader generational transformation in China's high-end consumption. As young people raised in an era of material abundance and cultural confidence emerge as the dominant consumer force, luxury is shifting from outward displays of social status to inward alignment with aesthetic values, cultural belonging and lifestyle choices.
This year marks LVMH's seventh time participating in the CIIE, themed "New Generations". Coinciding with the 25th anniversary of China's WTO accession, LVMH showcases seven iconic maisons — Bvlgari, Dior, Guerlain, Hennessy, Louis Vuitton, Sephora, and Tiffany & Co. Beyond its commercial footprint of over 1,400 stores across more than 100 Chinese cities, this year's expo serves as a lens into how century-old luxury houses are reimagining their bond with China's next generation of consumers.
"The new generation is the most important for us. We have already convinced the older generation, but now we have to convince the next generations," says Marc-Antoine Jamet, general secretary of LVMH. For Jamet, generational renewal sits at the top of the group's agenda. The established consumer base already knows and trusts the brands; the real future lies with the young.
Winning them over requires a different playbook. Jamet says the group does not chase short-term conversion rates or traffic-driven marketing. This year, it brought Les Journees Particulieres, LVMH's signature event, offering the public a behind-the-scenes look at the craftsmanship and savoir-faire of its maisons, to China for the first time, and showcased Guerlain's reimagined L'Heure Bleue fragrance, globally debuted in Shanghai in August, with considerations that go far beyond quarterly sales performance.
"China is not only a market for us. It is also a country in which we know that craftsmanship is important, and where we have a lot of artists," he says.
Jamet also describes the CIIE as a window into future consumption. Most innovative consumer trends first take shape in China, he says, and understanding young shoppers here helps anticipate where the global market will be in five or 10 years.
Andrew Wu, president of LVMH Greater China, has witnessed this generational shift firsthand over decades in the industry.
At a forum in LVMH's CIIE booth, Wu notes that the average age of Louis Vuitton's China team is 29, reflecting its youthful customer base. For Wu, speed is the Chinese market's hallmark — tastes evolve faster, consumer expectations rise faster, and the gap between a new trend and mass adoption is far narrower than in Western markets. That agility, he says, is reshaping how global luxury houses design products, plan events, and engage with local audiences.
The beauty and fragrance segment is among the first to feel this generational shift up close.
Guerlain's CEO, Gabrielle Saint-Genis, notes a renewed interest in traditional Chinese culture among young people. A 4,000-year-old domestic fragrance tradition is reviving, with formats such as scented creams and powders becoming popular. Domestic beauty brands are rising quickly because of their deep understanding of local aesthetics and consumer sentiment.
"These local brands understand China's culture deeply, so it's a way for us also to observe and learn," Saint-Genis says.
Beyond seasonal collections, Guerlain has rooted its long-term commitment in local nature and culture. Since 2011, Guerlain has supported the restoration of Yunnan's Tianzi Nature Reserve, helping to regenerate its forest ecosystem and reintroduce native orchids, including Vanda coerulea, transforming a deforested area into a thriving forest ecosystem with 30,000 orchid plants. This flower is central to its Orchidee Imperiale skincare line.
For Saint-Genis, this decades-long commitment aligns with China's inherent culture of long-term thinking. "Our strategy is long-term. There are plenty of things that we don't do because it's a short-term strategy."
Across the booth, fashion and leather goods brands are reading the same generational signal.
Louis Vuitton dedicates its Asnieres Salon to three historic travel trunks, including a 19th-century Cantonese piece from Gaston-Louis Vuitton's private antique collection. More than a tribute to the past, the display tells a story of cultural exchanges, as the chest's journey across borders more than a century ago reflects the enduring connections between China and the world.
Dior, meanwhile, is aligning with young consumers' focus on sustainability and creative reinvention. Its showcase features refillable lipstick and cushion compacts, lightweight glass fragrance bottles to cut carbon footprint, and reinterpretations of the iconic Bar suit and Lady Dior bag. In 2027, Dior will present its Cruise 2028 collection in Shanghai, marking Jonathan Anderson's first major Asian show as creative director, and highlighting China's central role in its global creative strategy.
Sephora is adapting to current trends by celebrating its 30th anniversary with the Sephora Collection and launching Maogeping Light, a collaboration with a top Chinese makeup brand, to showcase contemporary Chinese beauty aesthetics globally.
A similar shift is occurring in young people's approach to premium spirits.
Charles Delapalme, president and CEO of Hennessy, notes that young consumers no longer want to be told what a brand should stand for. This year, the house's new XO campaign breaks tradition by featuring open-ended visuals without celebrity ambassadors, formal banquets, or even a glass, encouraging personal interpretation.
"We don't impose rigid definitions on what cognac should be, allowing consumers to decide that for themselves," Delapalme explains.
According to Delapalme, cognac, once consumed primarily at business banquets and as formal gifts, now finds its way into casual home gatherings, parties and outdoor festivals. The house's ready-to-serve cocktails have also drawn many young first-time female drinkers to the category.
This move toward self-oriented consumption has also echoed across industry forums held alongside the expo.
Cai Yingling, president of MHD China, sums up the shift as moving from "pleasing others" to "pleasing oneself". Zhiwen Zhang, president of Fendi Greater China, puts a figure to the trend: the average age of luxury consumers in China is about six years younger than their overseas counterparts, and this younger cohort cares more about self-expression and experiential value than brand prestige alone.
From live craftsmanship demonstrations at the CIIE to citywide themed exhibitions and bespoke in-store services, brands are transforming physical spaces from sales floors into lifestyle destinations.
This shift from status to meaning plays out clearly in fine jewelry, one of the most resilient luxury segments in China.
According to Bvlgari CEO Laura Burdese, young consumers seek emotionally significant pieces that can become family heirlooms, viewing jewelry as both an emotional and financial investment. The Bvlgari Digital Passport strengthens this bond by detailing a piece's origin and craftsmanship.
At its core, this generational shift reflects an evolving understanding of luxury.
Beyond brand recognition, younger consumers increasingly seek meaningful connections with brands that resonate with their personal values, cultural identities and aspirations. Burdese calls this contemporary interpretation of legacy "a living heritage". "Heritage is key, but it should not be a cage. It should not be something old and dusty."
Contact the writer at heqi@chinadaily.com.cn
