For centuries, waterways have wound through downtown Suzhou in Jiangsu province, passing traditional houses with black-tiled roofs and whitewashed walls. Visitors flock to the city's celebrated classical gardens, nine of which are on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Yet just minutes from the tourist hotspots, narrow alleys conceal homes whose histories time has gradually blurred.
During the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties, Suzhou was a major economic hub. Its historic Gusu district remains home to former residences of officials, scholars and wealthy merchants. But erosion, neglect, termite damage, and successive alterations have taken their toll. Many once-grand mansions were divided among several families, leaving residents with cramped and often uncomfortable living conditions.
A major restoration project in Gusu began in 2024 and is now nearing completion. It covers 231 historic buildings, none of which has been formally designated as a protected heritage site at the national, provincial or municipal level. Of these, 189 will remain residential compounds after restoration.
The project is supported by the Ministry of Finance, the National Cultural Heritage Administration and the China Foundation for Cultural Heritage Conservation. It received 50 million yuan ($7.5 million) from national welfare and sports lottery proceeds, with local government departments contributing another 350 million yuan.
"Through minimal intervention, we hope to ensure the safety of these cultural heritage sites while retaining the everyday bustle of this historic neighborhood," says Xu Yunhe, director of the Cultural Heritage Protection and Management Center of Gusu district.
"An ancient city is far more than a vast scenic area for tourists," Xu adds. "What happens today will become history in the future. Heritage protection must also give local residents greater dignity and make their homes more livable."
Better places to live
Chen Jun, 83, is a retired Peking Opera performer. He moved into an approximately 200-year-old house near Ganjiang East Road after getting married half a century ago. Once owned by the Zhang family, the grand residence is now shared by Chen and several other families.
Chen is fortunate that his portion includes a small garden in the backyard. He grows flowers there and sometimes enjoys a leisurely summer afternoon beneath an old tree.
Winter in Suzhou, however, is another story. The city's damp, cold weather made poorly sealed windows and a leaking tiled roof a persistent source of discomfort for decades.
"My home is not a garden," Chen recalls telling the restoration team. "People enjoy visiting Suzhou's gardens, but they are not designed for modern living. Renovation should serve cultural heritage, but it should also serve the people."
Restoration experts considered residents' concerns. The latest work repaired the roof and the garden's pebble-paved ground, while messy electrical wires were neatly routed through dedicated conduits. More importantly, they replaced the original wooden-framed windows with modern alternatives.
Xia Jian, a professor of urban planning at Suzhou University of Science and Technology and director of the Suzhou Institute for the Conservation of National Historic Cities, drew up the renovation plan for the compound. He also set aside a room for community activities, giving designers a place to work on site and better understand residents' concerns.
Thanks to the residents, the building's main structure has remained relatively intact.
"People built up new walls to separate different families," Xia explains. "Indeed, it changed the original layout, but it also reinforced the ancient wooden frames. Residents took care of their homes in their own way. Otherwise, the entire building might have collapsed."
More than 20 families still live in the compound, although some have chosen to move out. The vacant rooms are earmarked for conversion into bookstores, guesthouses, exhibition halls, and other cultural facilities.
"This will allow the community to develop into a dynamic, mutually supportive environment," Xia says.
