My 40 years of passion for Beijing

"Welcome to Beijing." That is how I was greeted when I first visited this city in 1987 and is something I still feel today. However, I could have never imagined I would spend almost 40 years photographing and documenting the city. I knew so little about Beijing back then, for it does indeed take time and patience.

My feelings reflect it more than simply a city. It is indeed a testament to China's historic and contemporary history. To learn and understand Beijing — and indeed China — requires more than one short visit. In my case, it has become a lifetime of study and experiences throughout the country. It also takes time to appreciate the complexity of its various eras.

Beijing, in earlier years, became a starting point for my adventurous travels across China. However, the more time I spent in Beijing, a feeling of passion steadily grew. Looking back, the city and this country, have given me so much over the years. When leaving Beijing, I felt it was not a time to say "Goodbye", but more appropriately, "See you again, hopefully soon".

In late summer of this year, I returned after several months of absence. A clear morning sky allowed me to watch from the aircraft as it descended into Capital Airport. I could appreciate Beijing's vastness — one of the world's greatest conurbations. The panoramic views reveal an urban landscape stretching almost to the Northern and Western Hills.

I can recall during earlier years, its suburbs consisted mostly of villages and small towns. It reflected then how, even in late 19th century, Beijing was compact, behind defensive walls. It was long composed of low-rise dwellings stretching along historic hutong alleys. At the center, with grandeur, stood the Forbidden City.

From the aircraft, I eventually saw the distinctive China Zun Tower rising 528 meters high — a modern icon. Just as the 15th century Temple of Heaven represents an historic example.

Shortly after landing, I travelled by taxi along the Airport Expressway toward my hotel in the busy Chaoyang district. It was a lovey morning, adding positively to that feeling of being back in Beijing.

Later, I would head to the modern CBD at Guomao. My destination was the terrace at China World Mall 3, to once again take in its stunning skyline. I spent some time there reflecting the transformation from the "Capital of the Bicycle", to an international city of futuristic architecture.

Near my hotel flowed the tranquil Liangmahe River. Historically, horses for imperial ceremonies were stabled near there. Before events, they were washed in the waters, hence "ma" (horse) being included in the river's name. Often, I walked or cycled there when it felt more a quiet backwater. Today, the area has been beautifully enhanced, the waters clean, and it has been developed into a center for water-sports — a cooling respite from high summer temperatures.

Appreciating the late summer weather, there were many opportunities for me to walk, particularly around areas of historic grandeur, some dating back to the 13th century. At the northern end of Beijing's Central Axis stands Zhonggulou( Bell and Drum Towers) — some of the oldest buildings in the city. They rise above a tight maze of alleys, some going back to the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368). Since first coming upon Zhonggulou in 1995, it remains one of my favorite locations. Thirty years ago, the main square between the towers was home to a large outdoor market.

A short walk through long familiar alleys led me toward Shichahai and Yindingqiao (Silver Ingot Bridge). I have been photographing that bridge since 1995. Today, the surrounding area bustles with tourism.

South of the bridge, Qianhai is a popular boating area. It is difficult to appreciate it was historically the end of the Jade River, an important link from the Grand Canal. During the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), boats arrived there from southeastern China bringing essential supplies for the Forbidden City.

Again, enjoying pleasant weather, I revisited another stunning Beijing treasure, Guozijian. Its importance is reflected by several large pailou arches spanning the street. This alley has long been associated with the great sage, Confucius, who was born near Qufu in Shandong Province. Dating back to 1306, Guozijian's Imperial College was a leading center for education and learning through the Yuan, Ming, and Qing Dynasties. Nearby rises a magnificent Yonghegong (the Lama Temple) dating back to 1694. Together with Guozijian, this make for an excellent experience in Beijing. Compared to my earlier days, the ongoing expansion of the city's metro system also makes it so much easier to visit such places.

In between retracing my passion for the city's history, I've also followed its modern growth, particularly the development and rise of the CBD in Chaoyang district's Guomao.

From the 1950s to 1970s, it became a major center of Beijing's rapid industrialization. Today, the factories are all gone. The area is now a prime location of high-rise commercial buildings. Recently, the east side of No 3 Ring Road has been expanded. During its construction, I would walk around its exterior, with China World 3 Mall's terrace providing excellent views during various stages of its development.

Jinghui Street traverses that new zone from east to west. Now that the road has been opened, I spent one afternoon walking there while taking in some amazing ground-level views of the towers rising high above me.

What I appreciate about Beijing is how the city is home to some of the world's highest architecture, while also carefully preserving its historic legacy. Examples are several ceremonial altars dating from the Ming Dynasty, such as the Temple of Heaven. One I revisited was Ritan Park(Altar of the Sun), adjacent to the Jianguomen embassy district. It has long remained one of my favorite gardens in Beijing — a very serene area to walk through. It dates back to 1530, and, like the other altars, it was located outside the former city walls. Its architectural treasures have indeed been carefully preservered to retain its priceless historic feeling.

Beijing can boast being a city of parks. Tuanjiehu, close to the CBD, is a delightful place to spend some relaxing time. Often there is pleasant, traditional music created by local people. Again, this part of Chaoyang district is indeed interesting to wander around. In the 1950s, factories and homes for the workers were constructed, with much of the housing still remaining. A walk around its tranquil park offers some excellent views of the CBD.

I often enjoy walking through some longtime favorites of old Beijing, such as Qianmen. Home to renowned Laoshe Teahouse, Qianmen is also a key location on the Central Axis Line, regarded as the city's cultural heart. It formed the "Front Gate" leading into Beijing's former Inner City and toward the Forbidden City. Its structure includes the massive Zhengyangmen and Jianlou Towers.

I first started exploring the area in 1994, including its maze of early alleys — some very narrow. Those lanes are home to tiny restaurants offering traditional Beijing foods. Within its vicinity stands buildings dating back to the late 19th and early 20th century when the area was an important financial district.

Today, it is a thriving destination for domestic tourists. Qianmen pedestrian street and nearby Dashilar — a major shopping area during the late Qing Dynasty — are particularly popular.

West Xinglong Street runs west through an older part of Beijing. South of the former Ming City Walls is another interesting area. Initially, it felt quite rundown, not having the grander hutong alleys such as around Zhonggulou. Historically, it was home to several guild halls connected with provinces and cities across China.

In 2019, I noticed an ongoing transformation, particularly the restoration of Sanlihe River and the renovation of nearby alleys. The idea was to maintain the traditional, historic feeling of the area while upgrading facilities. I watched as comfortable cafés, restaurants, and craft shops were opening. Many younger Beijingers saw the area as a good weekend hangout spot. Peaceful and mostly traffic free, it is also an increasingly popular spot for walking or cycling.

Recently, I came upon the Beijing Qianmen Mandarin Oriental Hotel on Caochang 10th Alley close to West Xinglong Street. Opened in 2024, I went inside to discover a beautiful area with the feeling of a tranquil Beijing courtyard — stunning.

From there, I walked to the nearby Sanlihe River and my favorite caf overlooking the river. Viewing the river's gently flowing water from the cafés large windows, I reflected on how this area has changed for the better. Indeed, Beijing is aiming for quality in its development.

Coming near the end of that recent visit to Beijing, I thought of many happy moments and of the people who shared their kindness and friendship with me. I hope it will not be too long before I'm back at CBD's China World 3 terrace to hear those now famed words, "Welcome to Beijing".

The author is a photographer and writer from Scotland who has lived in China for 40 years.

The views don't necessarily reflect those of China Daily.

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