A new regulation taking effect on Nov 1 in Lanzhou, Gansu province, aims to standardize the city's famous beef noodle industry while preserving the traditional craftsmanship and distinctive flavors that have made the dish a local cultural symbol.
The Lanzhou Beef Noodle Industry Promotion Regulation covers ingredient supplies, restaurant operations, quality supervision, brand protection and industrial development. It comes as the industry expands well beyond the northwestern city. By the first half of 2026, more than 82,000 Lanzhou beef noodle outlets were operating in over 60 countries and regions, with the industry's value chain exceeding 56 billion yuan ($8.4 billion), according to industry figures.
Lanzhou beef noodle-making was added to China's national intangible cultural heritage list in 2021. However, preserving the traditional skills, which have largely been passed down from master to apprentice, remains a challenge.
Ma Wenbin, a fourth-generation inheritor of the craft, recalled how cooks traditionally relied on experience rather than precise measurements. "Broth, garlic shoots, cilantro and diced meat were all added by the handful. Without careful training, it was difficult to master exactly how much to use," he said.
Ma and his team are now measuring ingredients and refining procedures to ensure more consistent quality without compromising the dish's traditional character.
The new regulation encourages the development of central kitchens, prepackaged products and chain operations, alongside stronger supply chains and food safety traceability. However, industry representatives say standardization does not have to erase the distinctive characteristics of individual restaurants.
Fan Haoyu, deputy general manager of Lanzhou Yiwanlan Catering Management Co, said the regulation would be particularly important for businesses expanding beyond Gansu.
"Previously, many skills were passed down from master to apprentice, with businesses developing their own practices. The regulation provides a unified industry standard, making production and daily operations more systematic," Fan said.
He said the regulation defines the essential characteristics of Lanzhou beef noodles without prescribing every ingredient or cooking method, allowing restaurants to retain their distinctive flavors.
Protecting the industry's reputation is another priority. Liang Shunjian, head of Gansu Jinweide Noodles Culture Industry Group, said inconsistencies in restaurant environments, product quality and taste had sometimes damaged the industry's overall image.
"We hope the regulation will help businesses work together, improve operating standards and strengthen the Lanzhou beef noodle brand," Liang said. He also called for stronger trademark protection as businesses expand overseas.
Ma Chenghu, deputy secretary-general of the Lanzhou Beef Noodle Industry Association, said the regulation's significance extended beyond food production and restaurant operations.
"The regulation places greater emphasis on preserving and passing on the traditional craft and its cultural heritage associated with the Yellow River," Ma said. "This gives beef noodles a stronger role as a cultural symbol of the city, backed by legal safeguards, and creates new opportunities to connect food with tourism."
Beyond its growing commercial reach, Lanzhou beef noodles remain deeply rooted in the city's everyday life.
"I grew up eating these noodles. When I was a child, I would sit on the roadside to eat. Now the dining environment is better, and the taste has improved, too," said Lanzhou resident Sun Xianbin.
Wang Yan said her son, who studies outside Lanzhou, always eats a bowl before leaving the city and again upon returning.
"It's only when you pick up that bowl that you feel this city recognizes you as one of its own," she said.
Contact the writers at huyumeng@chinadaily.com.cn
