CULTURE

CULTURE

Where the language of stone speaks

From mammoth mountains to flecks of gold, Altay's name and fame are drawn from the land itself, Erik Nilsson reports.

By Erik Nilsson    |    China Daily    |     Updated: 2026-08-22 10:05

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Stone figures. HUANG JINGUO/ERIK NILSSON/FOR CHINA DAILY

Each new material added verbs to the lexicon forged by the interaction of the land and the people who inhabited it. Each technological leap expanded the vocabulary of what could be cut, carved, or killed.

About 5,000 years ago, it developed the dialect of agriculture cultivated through exchanges, with wheat and barley from the Fertile Crescent and millet from the Yellow River region scattered throughout Tongtian's soil like confetti.

The cave records 45,000 years of human occupation, each era bound to the last like the pages of a book printed in rock, bone and metal. It's like stepping into — and standing upon — a geological Rosetta Stone, where every era has transcribed itself into the earth.

The cave is not a grand temple, majestic palace or a splendid mausoleum. It's a simple shelter — a hole in a mountainside where people ate, worked and died, generation after generation, for 45 millennia.

When they finally left after so long, they left so much behind — their tools, their seeds, their stories pressed into the earth like bookmarks in a volume still being written. We're composing its epilogue with displays arranged behind multilingual signs so people from every corner of the modern world can explore this hole in a hill — a place that tells us not just who they were but who we are.

The cave sheltered them. They gave the cave meaning.

Today, the Altay Museum shelters this meaning. Within its walls, we become coauthors of this story.

The earliest wheat discovered in China. HUANG JINGUO/ERIK NILSSON/FOR CHINA DAILY

Hard gaze

After cavemen came "stone men". Rather than live in hollowed-out rock, these statues stood solidly outside stacks of stone that housed the dead at the Kayinar Cemetery.

These flat-faced, mustachioed sentinels cast their oval eyes eastward from the eastern edge of these tombs.

They stared toward horizons they'd never reach, where the sun seems to rise on Earth. Yet, they closed other distances — from the domain of the living to the realm of the dead and from the Bronze Age to our era.

They were naked, with curls outlining their delts and right angles defining their pecs.

Yet, these figures fashioned by the Chemurchek Culture, dating to about 4,500 to 3,000 years ago, aren't the "ancestors" of those who'd rule the region during the Sui (581-618) and Tang (618-907) dynasties.

Both are humanoid stelae. But they're born from unique cultures and times — different worlds that shared the same ground. They're synonyms etched in rock — essentially similar but different in detail.

The more recent and realistic renderings clutch a sword in one hand and a chalice in the other — the weapon of a warrior, the cup of a leader believed to guide and guard the dead on their journeys through the netherworld. Scholars speculate the goblet represents sustenance and the blade symbolizes martial might — conceptual symbols of tangible tools leaders used to provide and protect.

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