By Jerry Chan (thatsbj.com)
Updated: 2008-05-23 10:42

Set amidst the decrepit, postmodern surroundings of the east Third Ring Road's Xiaguangli area, this two-story, 30,000-square-meter loft space venue goes over the top with ironic presentation and decor-from the sign at the door reading “Our boss has instructed us to say welcome” to the antique chair toilets, funky wigged mannequins, and over-sized chopsticks and baby bottles on every table (the menus even have “Martian names” for each dish).

The food’s good though, and comes with a twist. Billed as “nouveau-Sichuan,” the menu offers updated versions of the southwestern province’s tongue-numbing spicy fare, including dishes like xiao jiao xia qiu (shrimp balls with small peppers, RMB 68), zui xiang yu (fish in wine sauce, RMB 32), and xiang yu zheng su pai (steamed pork ribs and taro, RMB 36).

Denial
Daily 11am-9.30pm.
6 Xiaguangli (next to the Zhongguo Wangtong Bldg), Sanyuan Qiao, Chaoyang District
52011818