A beacon on the horizon

(urbanatomy.com)
Updated: 2008-05-14 13:53

On a cold April evening, the warm glow of Rijsttafel appeared as a beacon on the bleary, rain-soaked horizon. The welcoming staff invited us into the dining room; within minutes, though, their attention became a tad overbearing. Nevertheless, the food was competently prepared, if not extraordinary.

The baked fish in pandan (RMB 38) was satisfying, while the rendang sapi (beef in coconut milk) was chewy, though the sauce offered a bold and intriguing mix of lemongrass, chili and spices. Sadly, the sayur lodeh vegetable curry (RMB 38) seemed thin and timid in comparison to the meat courses.

Overall, the tidy decor and limited menu invoke the simplicity of home-style dining. For diners who keep their expectations modest, Rijsttafel offers a rather pleasing experience.

Rijsttafel
Cost for two (excluding drinks): RMB 192
Daily 11:30am-11pm.
House 34, 3338 Hongmei Lu,by Yan'an Lu
64659880



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