Shangri-La's mushrooming reputation

A global appetite

At the forum, local officials and experts highlighted the growing recognition of Shangri-La matsutake as a regional agricultural brand.

According to data released at the forum, its brand value had reached 4.41 billion yuan, but experts said its reputation could not be measured by numbers alone.

Earlier this year, Shangri-La introduced new grading standards for matsutake, classifying mushrooms on a five-level scale.

The grading system considers factors including length, integrity, maturity, color, cleanliness and aroma. Among them, aroma remains the most difficult to measure.

"Matsutake's fragrance comes from a combination of volatile compounds," Sun Dafeng explained. "Technology can detect these compounds, but it cannot fully describe the human experience of smelling something fresh, earthy and connected to the forest."

Experts believe standardized grading and traceability systems can help consumers better understand the mushrooms they purchase. Each batch of matsutake can now be tracked through digital records showing its origin and processing information.

The international market for Shangri-La matsutake has continued to grow.

According to Diqing prefecture authorities, the region exported 55 metric tons of matsutake in 2025, generating 15.66 million yuan in foreign exchange.

The 2026 export season began on July 4, when a 14-kilogram shipment cleared customs at Kunming Changshui International Airport and was transported overseas within 24 hours of being picked, according to Kunming Customs.

Logistics companies have also expanded services to meet international demand.

At the forum, SF Express introduced new delivery solutions connecting matsutake-producing areas in Shangri-La, Kunming and Lijiang with overseas markets including Osaka in Japan, Seoul in South Korea and Singapore.

The company said its services could shorten door-to-port delivery time to about 28 hours and support exports via more than 50 international routes.

"To succeed in high-end global markets, Shangri-La matsutake needs more than quality and logistics," Sun said. "It needs sustainable harvesting, reliable standards, traceability and a story that reflects where it comes from."

For Ngawang, the future of matsutake is about helping more people understand the mushroom's history and essence.

"I hope the whole village can do this together," he said. "I bring the guests, and they experience it themselves. There is no need for a big investment."

Contact the writers at yangfeiyue@chinadaily.com.cn