On a day for great food, tricolor flies high

On Wednesday more than 100 French restaurants in China offered special menus as part of the global event Gout de France (Good France) held in more than 150 countries on five continents. The annual event, in its fourth year, involved more than 3,000 chefs and more than 150 French embassies.

Most of the popular French restaurants in Beijing were involved, including Brasserie 1893, Maison Flo, Heritage, Bistronome by Flo, Bistro 108, O'Steak, Infrarouge, Crepanini, Cafe De La Poste, La Cabernet, and Jaan French Restaurant.

The event follows the inclusion in 2015 of the "gastronomic meal of the French" on UNESCO's list of intangible cultural heritage. Every year on March 21 participating chefs create a special French menu offering their guests a chance to celebrate the French art of living and to enjoy the country's gastronomy.

"Unlike in other countries, in France there are not one or two dishes that you could say fully represent the national cuisine," says Christophe Rovan, the French owner of O'Steak, a popular bistro in Beijing. Of course, Japan has sushi, Spain has paella and Italy has pizza. But when it comes to French cuisine, it is hard to choose one or two distinguished dishes. There are about a dozen of them.

"France is such a gourmet country that each region has its own classic dishes. In that regard I think France and China are very similar."

O'Steak's Gout de France special menu consisted of homemade foie gras terrine with mango chutney and pan-fried foie gras, Burgundystyle escargots, tournedos-style beef tenderloin with Provence-style tomatoes, and a trio dessert of apple tart, vanilla creme brulee, chocolate mousses.

"We try to bring out classic French dishes from different regions in France in one meal," he says.

"The significance of Good France is that in one day it puts the spotlight on the diversity of French cuisine."

Julien Moulieres, head chef of the French ambassador's residence in Beijing, says that for him his country's emblematic dishes are cassoulet, boeuf bourguignon, pot au feu, tete de veau ravigote, escargot en persillade and choucroute.

"Very gradually Chinese are beginning to appreciate French food such as cheese, oysters and foie gras."

Gout de France, established by the then French foreign minister Laurent Fabius and the chef Alain Ducasse, embraces the nation's culinary traditions and also aims to show that French cuisine caters to every budget.

French cuisine has a prestigious reputation in China, but Rovan sees a down side to that: many Chinese equate it with expensive dining.

Chinese people often frequent French restaurant when they have something to celebrate, Moulieres says.

Roman says: "The truth is having a homey and delicious French meal does not have to cost you an arm and a leg."

O'steak is designed to be a warm French bistro that specializes in affordable classic dishes, he says.

From November, restaurants around the world, from fine restaurants to bistros, were invited to apply on the website goodfrance.com and propose a menu showcasing France's culinary traditions. An international selection committee of chefs, supported by the embassies, approved the list of participating chefs, among the aims being to ensure the quality and coherence of the menus.

Gout de France this year also shone a spotlight on Nouvelle Aquitaine, a region on the Atlantic coast, as guest of honor, the region being a melting pot for outstanding French wines, with Bordeaux as the standard bearer.

dongfangyu@chinadaily.com.cn

(China Daily 03/24/2018 page20)