Does the Michelin guide really suit Chinese tastes?

My earliest experience of dining at a Michelin-starred restaurant happened several years ago, when I had an amazing lunch at the Cantonese dim sum restaurant T'ang Court, now one of the only six three-star restaurants in Hong Kong. It was there and then that I realized Chinese food could be served in such a delightful combination of flavors, freshness and colors.

I'd have almost forgot that legendary gastronomic experience had it not been for the suddenly rising trend of dining at Michelin-starred restaurants in Shanghai, where French tire manufacturer Michelin launched its first restaurant guide in the Chinese mainland last year.

In a nation that boasts thousands of years of culinary culture, people pay a lot of respect to the 117-year-old restaurant guide. Some gourmets specifically arrange trips from other cites to Shanghai or book seats weeks ahead to taste the dishes in Michelin-starred restaurants. Some local restaurants advertise their links with other Michelin-starred restaurants, and the media gives lavish exposure to restaurants newly listed by Michelin.