Sole Meuniere: improving on perfection

Julia Child was able to remember the single most decisive moment in her life with photographic clarity. It was her first bite of her first meal in France, a fish dish called Sole Meuniere. That first forkful, she wrote, was "a morsel of perfection," and it set her on the path to become the Julia we'd come to know and love.

Though it is indeed a classic of French cuisine, Sole Meuniere - a filet of fish dipped in flour, then sauteed in butter - isn't terribly complicated. But it's one of those dishes that really benefits from attention to detail. And in the interest of improving on "perfection," I've added a few new details.

Let's start with the fish. Julia was served Dover sole. Thick, firm and delicious, Dover sole is widely available in Europe, but not in the United States. In fact, much of the "sole" sold on these shores isn't sole at all but a kind of flounder... and much of that is endangered due to overfishing and should be avoided. So opt for Pacific flounder or Pacific sole or just reach for any firm-fleshed white fish that is not endangered.