A letter, a cake and a promise

In the summer of 1881, a group of Chinese sailors, with their tanned skins, long braided hair and dragon-embroidered uniforms, walked down a street in Newcastle-upon-Tyne in northern England as the locals, unused to the sight of Chinese people, flocked around to observe them and pass comment.

The sailors had been the center of attention since April 24, when their 200-strong delegation arrived in the city. Their mission was to bring home two British-built cruisers, the Chaoyong and the Yangwei, to form the Beiyang, or Northern, Fleet and defend China against threats from overseas.

The ships weren't ready, so Ding Ruchang, the head of the delegation, opened the Chinese flagship to the public and encouraged the sailors to mingle with the locals to learn about Western culture.