Pride of the south

New hotel restaurant shines with artful takes on Cantonese and Shanghai fare, Mike Peters discovers.

Rocky Leung is a playful chef, delighting in surprises even as he shepherds the traditions of Chinese cooking in his kitchen at Man Ho.

Our recent visit to his brand-new restaurant at the Marriott Hangzhou included, for example, fried chicken meatball with strawberry sauce and herbs. If this sounds as gauche as Colonel Sanders smearing cheap jam on ground chicken, wait until you taste it. Fresh ingredients and a delicate touch make the dish light and lively.