The elixir of the revolution proves it can stand the test of time

Driving into the charming town of Maotai is like entering a world where time is divided into the fermenting stages of its famous liquor Moutai. Inveterate consumers conjure up its beneficial effects, Chairman Mao won his historic battles with it, and now it is set to conquer hearts in the baijiu (white liqour) bars that are opening up all over the world.

Moutai is the distilled spirit of a nation filled in neatly embellished clay bottles. Poured in miniature glasses and drunk in one go, the liquor made of sorghum and wheat unleashes its full microgravitational power, establishing new friendships and consolidating existing relationships.

At least five years are needed to produce, store and blend the perfect taste. "It is the consistency that makes the difference," said Liu Qinglang, manager of a new packing unit that employs more than 1,000 workers in Kweichow Moutai Co.

The eyes, noses and tongues of highly skilled tasters are some of the most important links in the manufacturing chain. Zhong Lin, manager of the storage factory and senior blending master, who has been working as a professional taster for almost 20 years, explains that the liquor must be crystal clear.

A strictly regulated fermentation process and refining procedure guarantee that the product is of the highest purity. Baijiu that has been stored for a long time might feature a slight yellowish tint. Zhong's tip of the tongue examines the sweetness of the liquor. The sides of her tongue sense its acidity and pungency, while the lowest point unfolds its palely bitter characteristics. She enjoys the wide bouquet of flowers, berries and nuts aside from the rich and mellow aftertaste.

In fact, subtle nuances of aroma and flavor depend on the climate and soil where the raw materials have been grown. "This is the reason why the distillate can only thrive in unique topographic conditions as found in the Maotai river valley," explained Yang Daiyong, general manager at Moutai Group.

As far back as 1956, China's first premier, Zhou Enlai, banned the construction of factories within a radius of 100 kilometers to prevent impurities from being washed down the river. Even in the 60s, when Chairman Mao strategically reallocated parts of his heavy industry to inland territories, Maotai's sensitive river landscape was spared from pollution.

Currently, the Moutai Group produces more than 130 tons of distillate per day - the equivalent of 270,000 bottles - and even exports up to 10 percent of its products worldwide, according to An Huailun, general manager for international trade.

"This number is steadily increasing," An said. "We aim at 20 percent and work hard to make Moutai a famous brand overseas that can keep up with other well-known liquors originating in Europe or America."

However, getting there is not so simple and may take a long time. It is time that Moutai has and needs, given that the maturing process allows the liquor to develop all the more complex nuances in taste, making it especially attractive with age.

In 2010, a bidder at Beijing Googut auction house paid a jaw-dropping 1 million yuan ($150,000) for a 57-year-old bottle.

During the Long March (1934-1936), the Red Army reached the town of Zunyi and left its footprints in Maotai. The locally fermented liquor not only revived the spirits of the soldiers but also cured their wounds.

Moutai was without doubt the elixir that boosted the revolution and brought fresh vigor to the Long March ahead. Moutai still is at the heart of a rich drinking culture in China, and as such has greatly contributed to modern China's historical and social development.

In the framework of a CSR (corporate social responsibility) program called the Hope Project launched three years ago, the Moutai Group invested 100 million yuan to provide 18,000 students in poor rural areas with advanced school or university education. The elixir has once again strengthened the elements that form the basis of a new generation and raised hopes for a better future for the entire nation.

The author is former attache, Embassy of Switzerland in Beijing.

(China Daily 07/21/2016 page7)