Historic sites offer a glimpse of China's past

Meilin Temple, built by the monk Pan Shenghua in 1522, is nearly as difficult to reach as enlightenment. For now.

Few make the bone-juddering journey up the rutted dirt road that twists around the Panshan Mountains to reach the holy site - or what's left of it, anyway.

Just two structures remain of the once colossal compound that featured 36 courtyards and 300 houses built according to the style of ancient ethnic Hakka residences.