Jean-georges lightens up

Forget the dark decor and heavy entrees that once defined great French food, the master chef tells Xu Junqian as he gives his iconic Shanghai restaurant a facelift.

Jean-Georges Shanghai is becoming lighter and airier.

It's not only in the white walls, the frosted glass and the minimalist gold-metal lights that dangle from the molded ceiling. Nor is it just in the delicate and polished silverware and white porcelain.