No wonder those naked monkeys look relaxed

Dipping in Japanese hot springs opens the pores and the eyes

A picture of three snow monkeys, those fascinating creatures that have bright red faces and look as though they could do with a haircut, was vivid in my mind when I and two friends suggested we visit Hakone, the hot spring town 85 kilometers southeast of Tokyo.

Leaving fascination aside, the first thing to consider about this destination, from which you get a spectacular view of the revered Mount Fuji, is the dress code. When I reminded my friends not to forget to pack their swimming suits, they mocked me gently, saying that onsen culture dictates that you wear the bare minimum - the emphasis being on the word bare. "What? Do you mean naked?" I asked nervously. At the last minute, wanting to cover all eventualities, I put my swimsuit in my suitcase before we left for Tokyo.