Cafe coffers are full, but coffee has no moxie

Last week, yet another cafe opened near my Beijing office, deep in the bowels of a hotel. I made my way in nevertheless, lured by its glossy flyers.

Stirring of any sense - aroma, sight, touch, imagination - of caffeine connoisseurs could raise hopes for a stimulating coffee and trigger the impulse to go and have one.

This aspect of the subconscious mind Chinese food-and-beverage entrepreneurs seem to understand, going by the ubiquitous cafes and coffee-serving establishments in Beijing and Shanghai. In doing so, they may have discovered a potential winner, never mind the spotlight on wines and liquor.