Surf's up in shanghai

Hawaii's celebrity chef Alan Wong brings his cuisine to the Chinese mainland, telling Xu Junqian he expects the city to shape what's on his plates.

Consistency should be the last thing you expect at Alan Wong's Shanghai, the much-anticipated outlet of the Hawaiian celebrity chef. That, however, is no knock on the food quality or service.

"Hawaii is the melting pot of Pacific Ocean," says Wong, who is known as one of the 12 co-founders of Hawaiian regional cuisine. "I don't want to make French or Japanese food in Hawaii. But I can take the French technique and use it on Japanese ingredients. That's what Hawaii and modern cuisine is about," he says.