Finnish fantasy

A restaurant in Beijing's Moma complex re-creates a Nordic birch forest, serving up salmon specialties and other treats from Northern Europe, Mike Peters reports.

Presented with a beautiful platter of Finnish meatballs at Moi restaurant, we can't help wondering: Are they different from Swedish meatballs?

"Of course," we're told. "They are bigger. Meatier. And the sauce is creamier."