A is for austria

A recent addition to Beijing's Nali Patio food scene hits its stride with elegant takes on traditional fare, Mike Peters reports.

Recent visits to Tafelspitz have seen the Beijing restaurant's upscale aspirations ride the waves of recent holidays. Roast goose for St. Martin's Day in early November. Chicken Breast Cordon Bleu for Christmas. Grilled Angus beef sirloin with potato gratin and brandy sauce for New Year's.

Such menu highlights, however, barely begin to explain the riddles of the capital's new Austrian temple of haute cuisine.