Into the temple of the written word

Pilgrimage to an architectural masterpiece that honors books and the planet YANG YANG

Early on it became clear to this bibliophile that just as some of the best books are no easy read, the first part of this outing - even if rich rewards awaited us at its end - was going to have to be endured. It was Saturday just after 8:30 am and we would be heading from downtown Beijing northwards, out past the last of the six ring roads that encircle it, leaving the sprawling suburbs in our wake, and eventually wending our way through rugged green mountains before reaching our prized destination.

But first there was the traffic to contend with. Anyone familiar with Beijing knows that traffic jams are among its most resistible charms and that particularly on a busy weekend or during public holidays, even negotiating the 80 kilometers or so to get to the Great Wall can be counted in hours rather than minutes. And so it was to be this day.