A haven of tranquility
Although Ile Sainte Marie, a narrow island just 8 kilometers off the east coast of Madagascar, boasts a history rich in legend, it is now a tranquil haven for travelers and pleasure seekers. Although the origins of the island's first inhabitants remains a hotly debated subject, it was christened by thankful Portuguese sailors who used the numerous coves to avoid being shipwrecked in high seas.
These same coves proved an ideal haunt for pirates who made use of the island's proximity to maritime trade routes to plunder spice and cargo ships traversing the Indian Ocean. One of the most infamous pirates to use Ile Sainte Marie was Frenchman Olivier Levasseur. Nicknamed "La Buse" (the buzzard) for the speed and ferocity of his attacks, he is alleged to have hidden one of the biggest treasure hordes in history before his eventual execution, although so far no sign of it has been found on the island. The pirates' cemetery, which includes tombs with the classic skull and crossbones insignia, bears testament to the island's dubious past and is a popular site for tourists today. In addition, several authentic pirate ships lie just under the surface in the Baie des Forbans. Two of these have been tentatively identified as the remains of Captain Kidd's Adventure Galley and Captain Condent's Fiery Dragon.
According to local legend, when Jean-Onsime Filet, a French sailor, was shipwrecked fleeing the attentions of a fellow officer with whose wife he was having an affair, he was nursed back to health by Princess Betia, the daughter of King Ratsimilaho. Princess Betia and Filet eventually married and after her father's death, the Princess ceded the island to France. When independence was finally granted in 1960, in recognition of Princess Betia's gift, the inhabitants of Ile Sainte Marie were allowed to choose between French and Malagasy nationality. Although most chose Malagasy, many French names remain.
Thankfully Ile Sainte Marie is rather more peaceful today. Popular among tourists and expats, it has avoided some of the excesses of Nosy Be, Madagascar's other main resort island on the opposite coast, and in doing so retains a considerable charm with its pristine beaches and small villages that dot the lush interior of the island. An atmosphere of tranquility and natural beauty prevails, a feeling emphasized by the joie de vivre of the Malagasy.
Cycling is the most popular mode of transport but the best way to reach secluded coves lined with coconut palms is by pirogue, a traditional flat-bottomed canoe made from tree trunks.
Among the many places to stay for nature lovers is the Masoandro Lodge, which offers six luxury and twelve standard eco lodges with breaktaking views of the ocean and the Ikakalao and Ampatsy forests on its doorstep.
The lodges provide a great base from which to explore the island's numerous attractions. While there's plenty of scope for lazing on the beach, Ile Sainte Marie also rewards the active type.
Its rugged interior is particularly good for hikers keen to take in the local fauna and flora, as well as the exotic wildlife such as lemurs, chameleons and tortoises. Perhaps the greatest attraction for nature lovers is the chance to see large groups of humpback whales who migrate to the sheltered waters around Ile Sainte Marie. Every year between June and September, visitors flock to the island for the chance to see the whales calve, rear their young and engage in spectacular courtship rituals.
"With Ile Sainte Marie and Nosy Be, we can say we have some of the most beautiful islands with some of the most scenic bays and beaches in the world," Minister of Tourism Jacques Andriantiana said.
"They offer people the chance to experience some of our touristic gems with an emphasis on serenity, nature and a very warm welcome.
"They also complement the kind of tourism you find in some of our neighbors such as Mauritius, the Seychelles and the Comoros islands very well."
(China Daily 04/22/2015 page18)
