Merchant of venice

Mediterranean fare enriched by centuries of seafaring comes to life at Sepa, Mike Peters reports in Hong Kong.

Despite the ancient city-state's star status as the grand terminus of the Maritime Silk Road, Venice has not left much imprint on the Italian food scene in China. While the flavors of Tuscany, Rome and Sicily have become commonplace, the culinary legacy of Venice struggles for some limelight.

In Hong Kong, Sepa is trying to change that. The name means "cuttlefish", and we were naturally anticipating a night of great seafood. But long before we could pop a succulent morsel of squid in our mouths, we became entranced by the Silk Road lore at the bar.