Currying flavor south

South India had a special place on the ancient maritime trade route, and its spices continue to be an international favorite, Belle Taylor reports.

On the night a friend and I visit Vedas, routinely cited as being among the best Indian restaurants in Shanghai with a clutch of awards to prove it, about half the clientele are Indian - always a good sign. The smiling Indian waiter greets us at the door and leads us to our seats. The restaurant is decorated with sophisticated Indian-style furniture. Soft, pink lighting illuminates the walls, and the whole effect whispers understated elegance.

It is, no doubt, a slightly different setting than what greeted the sailors aboard merchant ships that sailed the maritime Silk Route centuries ago. When they landed at southern Indian ports, they were probably not immediately poured lemon-scented water and handed a wine list. Sometimes things change for the better.