Insider's perspective on hidden Italy

John Hooper says he is often a little puzzled by Italy.

"It's a country that seems to be all on the surface, but actually a lot of things are hidden," says Hooper, author of The Italians, a cultural study of the country published by Viking in January. "That can be at times sinister, but it can also be fascinating and rewarding, if you go off the beaten track."

That is why Hooper, 65, thinks life is too short for tourist traps. Many people, he says, tend to prioritize Italy's famous sites over its more sincere side, when in fact they should do the opposite.