A Culinary Pilgrimage to Punjab

Eating our way through the most notable dhabas in town.

Within five minutes of ordering three deluxe thalis at the large and bustling Bharawan da Dhaba in Amritsar, India, a waiter brought us round steel trays filled with our $3 lunch.

There were a half-dozen bowls on each, which included spicy chickpeas with a hint of pomegranate powder; the black lentils known as daal and the Punjabi comfort food equivalents of macaroni and cheese; the creamy mustard greens called sarso ka saag; and kadhi, a yellow chickpea flour and yogurt curry swimming with fried onion fritters.