Guts, Glory - and Haggis

Scotland's national dish has been made for centuries.

Just before 5 in the morning, the slender streets of little Dingwall, a town in the heart of the Scottish Highlands, were completely silent.

No cars waited at the handful of stoplights downtown; even the bakers hadn't stirred. In the cool, still grayness, I tiptoed through the streets, marveling at the squat green hills that frame the town, feeling slightly disoriented, though I knew it must be impossible to get lost in such a snug place.