Beijing's most lauded Spanish restaurant a weekend treat

Last Sunday turned into a gaggle of little plates, as I joined two friends at chef Jordi Valles' popular "Infinity Brunch" at Agua.

As the third course arrived, I hear a contented sigh on my right, where a beef tenderloin has arrived with a mash of sweet potato on the side. The steaming meat is perched in an aromatic puddle of sauce laced with balsamic vinegar.

"If I could stick my face in this reduction, I would," says my friend.