Resort life on the cheap

Fresh seafood and friendly locals abound off the beaten beach path in Tofo, Mozambique, writes Seth Kugel.

An hour up the sand from the little beach town of Tofo, perched on a peninsula jutting off the southern coast of Mozambique on a bay of gently surfable Indian Ocean waves, I met five children who had never heard of pizza. We were the only six people on that stretch of beach - five black children in the water chattering in Bitonga, and one ghastly white, sunscreen-covered body walking along the sand under a relentless midday African sun.

"Hello! How are you?" one called out in English, a 13-year-old girl.