At Mao's Table

The legacy of the late chairman lives on in restaurants founded by his favorite chef, Ye Jun discovers.

History is in the food at Cheng Fu Yan, literally translated as "Cheng's official banquet". Few people would fail to notice the importance of its location, as they arrive at No 38 Nanchangjie. Zhongnanhai, the central government complex, is just across the street. It is a small courtyard house, with just two bungalows and a two-floor building. There are only seats for a maximum of 24 guests. The staff members explain it is not easy to have a two-floor building opposite Zhongnanhai, because of strict security in the area. Opened in 2009, the restaurant is the final achievement of Cheng Ruming (1926-2012), Chairman Mao Zedong's executive chef for 20 years.

Cheng also headed the kitchen for state leaders after Mao Zedong, including Deng Xiaoping and Jiang Zeming. But the menu highlights the Mao era, and quite a few dishes mark important historical moments in China.