Back to straits' times

Cafe Malacca harks back to a simpler period when Malaysia's ethnic cuisines were dominated by robust flavors. Rebecca Lo samples some home-style favorites, in Hong Kong.

I have to admit: I get very confused when people talk about Malaysian food. That is because the cuisine is dramatically different in every Malaysian town. The laksa of Penang is worlds apart from the Cantonese-inspired seafood dishes served in Kota Kinabalu, and Kuala Lumpur eateries dish up Hainan chicken rice that doesn't exist on Hainan island.

Like Chinese cuisine, Malaysian fare is dependent on local culture, available produce and each chef's individual flare. Whether the chef is a crusty street stall man with a wok or working in a 5-star hotel, authentically good eats can be found in every corner of the country.