Longio looks to overtake foreign rivals

BEIJING - Buy any product considered a luxury item, including watches, and you can be almost certain that it will have had its genesis in the West.

For decades the finely made watches of Europe, particularly those from Switzerland, have stood head and shoulders above their rivals in the international high-end market.

Mi Changhong, a watchmaker in Shenzhen, wants to loosen that stranglehold by building an internationally recognized watch brand born and bred in China.

So far, none of the Chinese watches enjoy the same brand-awareness in the global market as their top European counterparts," said Mi, the founder and chief designer of Longio Watch Co. "I want to prove that China is not just a base for original equipment manufacturing (OEM) for watches, but can also be a cradle for world-class timepieces."

Far from being fanciful, that dream is on its way to becoming a reality.

Eight years after Mi started Longio, the brand is is becoming increasingly sought by the elite and the "fashionistas" in Europe and the US.

"The number of keen collectors of Longio products keeps growing," said Mi.

Many Chinese would be surprised to learn that Longio, its metal dial engraved with the words "Made in China", is on display with the world's most-luxurious brands in some upscale stores in Switzerland, he said. "We retail Longio watches exclusively to high-income groups in Europe and the US."

Each watch is individually crafted, he said, and only about 1,000 are made each year.

In Europe, the watch will set you back between 1,250 euros ($1,600) and 19,600 euros. If you want to splash out a lot more on a hand-tailored limited-edition model, made with precious materials such as a combination of jade and gold, think in terms of millions of yuan.

Mi attributes Longio's appeal to European consumers to exquisite craftsmanship, but most importantly, to the design's originality and creativity.

"My design, which is a fusion of Eastern and Western cultures and aesthetic values, brings something fresh and new to shoppers in the West," Mi said, adding that people are captivated by the unique exotic beauty of the timepiece.

Watches with dials inspired by famous Chinese anecdotes and legends, combined with very simple casings, are Longio's most classic design, and were an instant hit when first made available in Europe.

To ensure that every design has Longio's characteristics, Mi insists on hiring only Chinese designers, the rationale being that only the Chinese can produce designs that have an authentic national identity.

"Many of the world's top-brand watches have tried to incorporate elements of traditional Chinese culture into their design, which shows that Chinese culture is loved by people everywhere. But I think only the Chinese are able to create authentic Chinese-style designs."

Mi said that many Europeans used to believe that Chinese watchmakers are only good at making replicas of famous brands, but Longio's success has provided a strong rebuttal of that snotion.

Mi started Longio's retail business in Europe instead of China, not only because Europe has a richer and longer watch culture, but because he knows more about the European market and the tastes of its consumers, he said.

Like most Chinese watchmakers, Longio started out as an OEM. Mi began to make components for European watch brands in 1996. Before Longio was started, Mi produced watches for some of the world's most luxurious brands.

"The OEM orders from those high-level overseas customers pushed us to keep upgrading our production technology to meet their strict quality requirements. It also helped us to understand trends in the international market, especially in Europe."

However, Mi was aware that doing OEM business kept him at the bottom of the industry chain, and made him the most vulnerable to market fluctuations.

"I saw many OEM factories in Shenzhen fold as a result of economic downturns or of fierce price wars. I had to evolve to survive, and as a keen lover of watches, I always dreamed of having my own brand."

A watch is not just for telling the time, but also reflects the taste of its wearer, Mi said. "I wanted to express my understanding of the perfect watch, making a timepiece that was a piece of art."

Since 2007, Longio has been taking part in the Baselworld Watch and Jewelry Show held in Switzerland , the world's biggest trade show for the watch and jewelry industries. "Through our contact and exchanges with those internationally renowned watch manufacturers, we have a better idea of what we need to do to catch up."

Mi says Longio has just been invited to be the only Chinese watch brand at Top Marques in Monaco in April, the most prestigious luxury show for the world's best cars, luxury watches, yachts and jewelry.

China Daily

(China Daily 01/14/2012 page10)