Getting into the swim of things at Houhai

It was a scorching Sunday in July. I was cycling, for the first time, a fixed wheel bicycle, which can't coast as the pedals are always in motion.

By the time I reached Houhai I was cooked. My knees were bright red and my shirt was stuck to my back. I threaded my bike through the crowds until I reached the bathing spot on the east side of Qianhai.

There were several swimmers in the water, including a big fellow with a shaved head. I asked an attractive young woman in a bikini if she'd been for a swim. She replied in the affirmative and pointed out her boyfriend with the bald head.