Beyond the Sacred

Most people go to Siem Reap to experience Angkor Wat, but Rebecca Lo finds the sleepy town has evolved to become a place with a lot more to offer than just temple-hopping.

With tourism in nearby Siem Reap developing at an exponential rate over the past 20 years, the city now boasts a solid infrastructure of services and facilities to keep up with the increase in visitors. Luxury hotels are as ubiquitous as backpacker hostels; championship golf courses and horseback riding are welcome distractions and art and cultural sites abound beyond the walls of Angkor.

An increasing number of direct flights, including 13 per week from Guangzhou, is transforming Siem Reap into a viable long weekend destination. As Siem Reap-Angkor International Airport offers visas upon landing and on its website, more international travelers are discovering that Cambodia is a safe and genuinely friendly destination that has emerged from a troubled past to face the future with enthusiastic optimism.

"There is no shortage of trendy places here," says Chloe Chomienne, manager with Exotissimo Travel. "There is finally peace and economic development. It is a good value-for-money destination. Cambodians are really looking to the future. They have a different mentality than their Southeast Asian neighbors, although they share a similar culture. The people are warm and there is a lot of authenticity here. And it is safe for women and individual travelers."

Retreating to a comfortable haven after a hot and tiring day of sightseeing is vital in Siem Reap. For old-world colonial charm, you can't go wrong at Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor. This 1932 hotel was the first property to cater to weary tourists during the golden age of travel through Indochina. It retains many lovely touches such as guest rooms with ceramic doorknobs, claw-foot cast iron bathtubs and butlers handpicked from long-serving staff by the general manager.

If contemporary European sophistication is what you seek, then Le Meridien Angkor fits the bill. Its Angkor-style pool and Italian restaurant Angelo's are standouts; plus, it has the distinction of being the closet 5-star property to Angkor Wat. "It is the last bastion of civilization before the jungle," laughs Lee Ng, Le Meridien Angkor's director of sales and marketing.

New kid on the block Hotel de la Paix has already amassed a loyal following. It is easy to see why. Its location in the heart of the Old Market district means it is within easy walking distance to nearby pubs, restaurants and shops. Chic interior design courtesy of Bill Bensley gives it a sense of wit, underscored by swinging daybeds for al fresco dining and its ever-changing arts lounge showcasing the works of local and international talent.

For getting around the city, nothing beats the tuk tuk. These motorcycle-driven open-air carriages are fun and can seat between four to six passengers. Alternatively, you can hire a car and driver if the heat and humidity get too overwhelming, or opt to bike to and around Angkor Wat or the city if you are feeling energetic.

Hungry folks head to Le Passage where they can indulge in an assortment of traditional Khmer cuisine as well as international fare. Tucked between Pub Street and the Old Market, the explosion of restaurants here came about in 2008 when many of the buildings were renovated.

"This area was formerly all private homes," notes Sreyroth Chan, general manager of Amok. The pretty two-story colonial restaurant specializes in amok fish - a coconut-flavored steamed curry that melts in the mouth. "Amok fish is found in every traditional Cambodian household," explains Chan. "It is sweet and creamy, and every family makes it differently."

Lounge lizards will want to check out Nest, a sexy restaurant that offers grills and home fare including lok lak, a succulent marinated stir-fry meat entree served with steamed rice. White tent-like sails provide shelter in the garden setting, while a dozen daybeds invite you to dine while reclining like the ancient Greeks.

Pub Street and its neighboring alleys offer a wide selection of nightlife venues where you can enjoy a pint or two. A popular haunt is Red Piano, reputed to be the bar of choice for Angelina Jolie when she was in Siem Reap to film Lara Croft: Tomb Raider. Or check out the sultry digs and yummy cocktails at Miss Wong, run by expatriate Dean Williams. Inspired by 1920s Shanghai, the ambience is all siren red glamor with a chilled vibe.

In between the bars and restaurants are specialty shops featuring local artists and designers. Garden of Desire is a jewelry shop with original pieces by Ly Pisith, and the distinctive combinations of semi-precious stones and silver are worth a second glance. If your feet are revolting from exhaustion by this point, try one of the many "fish doctors" lining the streets. These tanks offer the services of small fish that suck away the dead skin on the soles of your feet, leaving them soft and smooth, as if you've had a relaxing foot massage.

Khmer handicrafts are seeing a resurgence, partly due to the efforts of Artisans d'Angkor. Take a look at its workshop where dozens of young Cambodians are learning traditional techniques such as stone- and wood-carving, lacquering and gilding, and silk-weaving. There is a shop on site to stock up on souvenirs such as brightly colored silk scarves that are the perfect size for slipping into your carry-on bag.

(China Daily 05/22/2011 page16)