Sichuan grand dame

Beijing has many Sichuan restaurants, but few are older than Sichuan Fandian - first set up in 1959. It's an eatery with a glorious past. It was suggested by the pioneer Chinese marshals, many of whom came from Sichuan, and was approved by late Chinese premier Zhou Enlai. Among its celebrated faithfuls were political leaders Deng Xiaoping and former French president Jacques Chirac.

Sichuan Fandian's Wangfujing and Prince Gong's Palace branches were relocated and reopened at the present location at Xinjiekou last December, where the historic restaurant takes on a new look and offers a new set of classic, as well as updated Sichuan dishes.

Let's start with the popular Chuanbei (northern Sichuan) bean jelly, and white pork slices topped with mashed garlic and paved with cucumber slices - two cold dishes that are more tasty than spicy. Two other classic offerings are double pork-lung slices, and "uniquely flavored" chicken slices, spiced with a mixture of bean sauce and chili sauce.