Queen of the bean brewing a flavor takeover

The Limestone Coast of South Australia isn't the first place you'd think of looking for one of the world's finest coffee roasters.

But Mahalia Layzell, of Mahalia Coffee, in Robe, roasted the competition to scoop up the top gong at the 2010 CSR Sugar Golden Bean Roaster Competition and Conference, one of the world's biggest coffee competitions.

Mahalia Coffee is nestled between the achingly blue sea and the blindingly white dunes, and the rich coffee scent blends with the salt tang to lead you right to its doors.

In a room roughly the size of an average Chinese apartment, green beans are roasted to perfection in small batches to bring out the best of the flavors.

Mistress of the bean, Mahalia (after whom the company is named), only roasts around 20 kilograms of coffee at a time, closely monitoring every step.

As the beans roast, she listens for the characteristic crack sound they make, before cooling them quickly - in less than three minutes - when they're fully done.

"Coffee is so important in everyone's lives and when people drink it, they're having their little moment," she says. "And I want to be a part of that."

To make that happen, her core philosophy is the pursuit of perfection and variety in flavor through the natural flavors of the coffee.

Different ways of making coffee call for different blends. Coffee made under pressure, as in an espresso machine, is more rugged in flavor, which can hide the flaws in lesser coffees.

"One of the biggest mistakes people make," says Mahalia, "is to try and draw too much out of the coffee when using a machine."

This leads to the coffee drying and burning, and makes the resulting coffee acrid and bitter. It's better to make a smaller, stronger amount, and add hot water or hot milk (no more than 75 C) to taste.

Often forgotten in this day and age of countertop machines is the simple French Press, or plunger, which works better with lighter beans, such as Kenyan varieties. This is because the lower temperatures involved draw out all the subtle flavors, creating a longer palate in the cup.

Don't be tempted to just splash in boiling water straight from the kettle though. Best results are obtained around 88 to 93 C, as "coffee boiled is coffee spoiled".

Letting coffee sit around in a plunger for too long can also make it bitter. For best results, stir after you add the water, let it sit for about one minute, then plunge and pour.

There's more to life than just black coffee, though.

One of my personal favorites is a double shot latte, which is two ounces of espresso, topped off with freshly steamed milk, with just a thin band of froth over the top.

Of course, there's the ever-popular cappuccino, and the macchiato, an espresso "stained" with a dash of hot milk, creating a marbled effect within the glass.

Coffee shouldn't be seen as just a hot beverage, either.

"One of the nicest things in summer is to take some ice cubes in a glass and pour over a double shot of espresso," Mahalia says.

"Then you get a nice cold caffeine hit, which cools you down and fires you up."

Another cold treat is a simple affogato, consisting of a large scoop of good vanilla bean ice cream, over which a freshly brewed shot of espresso is poured.

The lush result is a perfect way to end a dinner party - or an extravagant way to start the day!

China Daily

(China Daily 02/19/2011 page12)