Unoaked, fruity and proud of it

Before the traditional die-hards track me down and lynch me, I would like to say that Chardonnay is not quite my favorite wine, oaked or unoaked, so this is not an indication of preferences either way. This is merely an exercise in exploring the possibilities.

In truth, I have tasted good unoaked Chardonnay that has nearly changed my mind.

It's a bit late in the season to talk about a summery white, but we have to soldier on in logical progress after our last column on the ubiquitous Chardonnay.