Cinco de Drinko!

For a mere 50 yuan, visitors to Saddle Cantina can don sombreros and plop down on a stool with a horse saddle for a seat while bartenders pour shots down their throat "until (they) can't take it any more".

While genuinely unique among Beijing's multifarious drink specials, this deal disingenuously identifies the establishment's character. The Saddle Cantina is neither kitschy nor geared toward heavy drinking budget boozers, something those familiar with its previous location might find difficult to believe.

Since moseying around the corner to Nali Studios, it has moved up in the world both in terms of scaling up and acquiring a second story.

But still present are the ready-to-burst burritos and well-conceived cocktails that won the place its initial fan base. Margaritas ooze from a slushy dispenser that bartenders call "the margarita machine".

The new incarnation of the Saddle Cantina has also stepped up the American Southwest theme, with dcor coming in such forms as a giant red paper-mach chili pepper.

A 200-sq-m balcony is infused with Spanish architecture and covered with a roof extending out 15 m.

Additional appeal is created by numerous specials.

The 5th of every month is "Cinco de Drinko", when drinks are half-price for 24 hours. The same applies during Fridays' 4-8 pm happy hours and for fajitas on Mondays, while on Tuesdays, five-packs of Sol beer - usually 30 yuan a bottle - go for 100 yuan.

On Wednesdays, a flamenco outfit from Xinjiang strums Spanish melodies.

Drink prices range wildly from 30 yuan for imported brews to 220 yuan for a shot of top-notch tequila. On average, suds go for about 40 yuan per bottle, while cocktails hover around 60.

With all of its offerings, this slice of the southwestern US in northeastern China is an ideal spot for a relaxing siesta or wild fiesta - or both.

Nali Studios, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang district.朝阳区三里屯北路81号北京那里花园内西侧二层小楼815208-6005. 10am-4am.

Erik Nilsson

(China Daily 11/01/2008 page8)