Special Supplement: Sichuan's spicy cuisine sizzles its way to fame

While walking down the steps of a pavilion-like building that overlooks the Dujiangyan irrigation system, the last thing I expected to see was a statue of the inventor of Kung Pao chicken. But there he was, sitting in one of the galleries, beard flowing, dressed in a greenish robe with a cape.

Ding Baozhen (1820-1886) was governor of Sichuan province during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) and instrumental in obtaining financial backing from the central government to rebuild Dujiangyan. The plaque did not mention the popular dish, but the guide hasn't forgotten it. To those who live in America and frequent Chinese restaurants, Kung Pao chicken is better known than Dujiangyan.

There are at least three versions of the origin of the recipe. One has the governor playing host by combining peanuts, dry pepper and sauted chicken cubes. The second says he stumbled on the dish elsewhere and asked his family chef to reproduce it. The third version contends the grateful public picked the dish and named it after him. Kung Pao was the title conferred on him by the royal court for his accomplishments.