Buddhist enlightenment and wild fantasy

Two figures stand out in the history of Turpan. One is Cen Shen (AD 714-770), a Tang Dynasty (AD 618-907) poet who was stationed there and left behind some of the most magnificent lines about the place.

Another is Xuan Zang (AD 602-644), a grand monk who defied the emperor's objection and embarked on a journey to India in search of Buddhist teachings and scriptures in India, the birthplace of the religion. Before he reached Hami on the western end of current Xinjiang, he trekked for days without food or water. He later described the scenery as forlorn, with ghostly fires at night.

Once he entered the realm of Gaochang, he was treated as a guest of honor because the local king was an ardent believer in Buddhism. The king attempted to talk the monk into staying, but relented after the latter staged a hunger strike. To ensure a safe voyage, the king gave him an entourage with enough wealth to last 20 years. He also wrote to the monarchs of 24 nearby kingdoms to ask for assistance should he travel through their territory.

Xuan Zang later studied overseas and when he returned to China years later, he was appointed as a grand master of theology. But he could not fulfill his promise to the Gaochang king because the kingdom was already overthrown.

Today you can view the rotunda amidst the Gaochang ruins where the grand monk delivered his sermon on his way to India. Better yet, his adventures were fictionalized during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) into the most stunning fantasy tale in Chinese history - Journey to the West, a.k.a. The Monkey King. The pretty-faced but physically weak monk becomes the target of all monsters, goblins and fairies as they all vie for a piece of his flesh that will supposedly make them immortal.

Some of the scenic descriptions in the novel have basis in reality. The Flame Mountain, which blocks the monk and his band, is said to be the one along Grape Valley, now a five-star tourist attraction in Turpan. It is not literally on fire, but if you climb on it on a summer day, your leather shoes will melt into a glob. Photographers have captured a "flame effect" as the hot air turns distant landscape into a mirage and red clouds add a warm hue.

China Daily

(China Daily 10/11/2007 page19)